Copenhagen Treasures: Restaurant Kul
Kødbyen – the Meatpacking District, in Copenhagen is a hip place to go out for dinner. Restaurant Kul is one of the restaurants in the area setting the standard for the remaining dinner places.
Copenhagen is full of good bistros. However, Restaurant Kul is not just another one of them. Kul favors spices and intensely tasteful ingredients. This is emphasized through their internationally aimed range. There is a relaxed atmosphere with a touch of New Yorker style in the décor with white tiles as
reminiscent of the times when the Meatpacking District was actually a meatpacking district. The food is generally inspired by the kitchen from San Francisco with its equally international and multicultural perspective and cuisine. Both of the chefs have previously worked in San Francisco however the kitchen is not American, but international. This bistro offers the best from a variety of cultures, rather than just focusing on the Scandinavian cuisine. The guests have the opportunity to put together their own menu through the very in principle, “pick & choose”. Additionally there is a good wine selection, with the opportunity to choose just a glass and thus match different wines with different dishes.
We began off with raw Norwegian lobster with fennel, orange and Sichuan pepper. The course was served with a fantastic White Burgundy, Saint-Aubin La Princée from 2011. The wine also went well with the next dish, which was edible crab with passion fruit on shiso leaves, a base inspired by Malaysia and topped with caviar. It was clear from the beginning that Kul differs from other restaurants by giving emphasis to both taste and spices with a bang on. The third course was Teriyaki spare ribs with spicy tomato-honey and kale. This was served with a good Californian Pinot Noir, Monterey Pinot Noir, Bluebird from 2011. Next we got juicy veal tenderloin with plum vinaigrette, beetroot sauce, wasabi crust and watercress. I must admit that I was particularly seduced by their various sauces with not just randomly paired spices. For dessert we got beautiful Danish strawberries with cream, peanut butter and ginger ice cream, as well as a sweet dessert wine called Pass the Cookies! N.V. Perfect choice for the last dish. We ended the dinner with a good cup of coffee, and of course coffee doesn’t come alone. It was served with grilled marshmallows and tasty bitter chocolate biscuits.
In total it was a wonderful menu with a very balanced wine menu, carefully and perfectly chosen specifically for this dinner. This brings me to another mention worthy point – the service. The service was at the highest level, and it was clear that our waiter was not just another student worker, but was doing exactly what he loved, and he was more than keen on explaining both the food and the choice of wine to us. Extremely inspirational young man. This has possibly been one of my best dinners out in Copenhagen.
The price makes a visit to Kul a real coup. A good number of dishes can be bought in the price range 50-200 kr. and a few dishes can be bought for the price of 350-550 kr. The restaurant turns into a great party with fabulous cocktails from Thursday to Saturday. The opening hours are every day for lunch 12-15 and dinner 18-23 except for Thursday to Saturday when it is open until 02, meaning the evening will not end when you receive the bill. On Saturdays and Sundays the Chef offers a delightful breakfast from 11 o’clock.
1712 København V